Friday, July 14th - Journey to Lawn Hillx2

We were on the road by 10am, whizzing out of Masset in our giant SUV, packed with all our stuff, with loads of room to spare.

We arrived quickly at Pure Lake and saw the mini tour bus of older folks was unloading. We walked in to the lack and it was still a calm, peaceful spot.

Pure Lake... 100% less camping this time

At Pure Lake

Wide angle phone photo of Pure Lake

Driving the SUV, it was a treat to listen to radio on a radio, as opposed to when I've streamed Radio One or Radio Two on my phone when we've had wifi where we're staying.

We stayed on the highway, bypassing Port Clements, then had to stop for bridge construction between Port Clements and Tlell, before we had passed Mayer Lake. I started to get worried about time - I didn't want to start biking too late so that I pushed myself too hard or ran into bad traffic.

We stopped at the Glamping Co for more fish for dinners, then the Crystal Cabin Gallery to get a polishing cloth for Marieka's bracelet - it was crowded. We stopped at the Crow's Nest, but it didn't open until 1:30pm. I let Marieka know I would likely stop for ice cream there on my bike ride and she noted being surprised I hadn't already on the trip. I noted that this was because she can't, and I didn't want to tempt/taunt her.

The directions to the cabin eventually helped us to find it, after having gone past it (it was really difficult to see the "sawmill" at the end of the driveway that was listed as a key feature) and I got Marieka into the cabin along with our bags, her bike and my trailer, and was back on the road only half an hour later than hoped (around 12:30pm).

After fuelling up and returning the rental in Masset, I was on the bike heading South at 1:50pm (about 50 minutes later than my ideal time). It was way easier than earlier in the week when I was still pulling a trailer. I originally planned to take a break every 20km or one hour, but this was a rough plan. The first break was a quick one, just South of Pure Lake to take a quick photo with my phone of the sign about the tidal generation project.

Sign about the tidal generation project.

I was doing a lot of climbing, but felt good and maintained good speed. I set myself a rule to never push hard - to back off and spin away in a lower gear if I started to push hard.

Well, I got to the summit on the way to Port Clements and it was easier going, so I kept going past my 1 hour mark, and well past 20km. I passed Port Clements and planned to take a lunch break at Mayer Lake, but it was not to be. Traffic was once more stopped at the bridge construction, forcing a break on me, so I quickly ate my sandwich in gulps, drained out a water bottle and swapped their positions and was ready to go again after 5 or 6 minutes of break, when traffic started moving again.

There was a definite headwind that I was pushing against, making it harder to keep speed, but things were a little more sheltered by the time I got to the Tlell River bridge. I started standing and stretching during downhills, to prevent soreness.

Following the familiar road to the Crow's Nest I felt great, pulling in there (highway distance marker 65km) 2 hours and 45 minutes after leaving Masset. I first grabbed some groceries at the store: eggs, an onion, green pepper, sauerkraut and sugar-free espresso bar for Marieka, then asked about the hummingbird paddles they had hanging. They are for sale and, the lady noted, are by a Haida artist from Skidegate, Percy Ellis, whose work is not common to see. These paddles had caught my eye when we had been there before, and I now own a small hummingbird paddle.

I also had a waffle cone of chocolate ice cream, checked in via text, and was back on the road by 5:30pm.

Chocolate ice cream at the Crow's Nest

The headwind was stronger and I had trouble pushing as hard, so switched gears a lot and tried to conserve what strength I had left. It was with relief that I turned onto the Lawn Hill Road, road up it and climbed the hill to the cabin.

Marieka had not yet taken a bath in the jetted tub, so I encouraged her to go so, stretched and made dinner (Salmon baked/air friend on a bed of onion slices, subbed with coconut oil, garlic powder and salt, with sauerkraut and fresh green pepper), learning that it would have been better to slice the salmon into 3 pieces first, bake it to get the inside cooked, then airfry it (instead, I did this in reverse).

We had a nice dinner, then I soaked, massaged, and stretched in the jetted tub before bed.

Thursday, July 13th - Taaw Hill & North Beach

I was originally going to pick up our rental at 8am, but it wasn't going to be ready until 10am, so I made breakfast fir 9am while Marieka did her stretches and back exercises.

I left around 9:30am to walk over to pick up the rental a couple of km away. Looking at the 2011 Ford Expedition, I knew it would easily hold all of our belongings and then some. With some caution (this is a LARGE SUV) I pulled out and was quickly back to pick up Marieka to go to Taaw Hill.

The lady at the rental company called it "The Beast"

We stopped first at the Chown Gallery, where Marieka tried on silver bracelets and asked a lot of question of the Raven House Haida lady who worked there, Taya. Marieka asked her about what she thoguht of white people who wore jewelry and other cultural items with house crests on them. This had been something we had both talked about a bit. Marieka really liked a killer whale bracelet and hadn't wanted to take it off, but wanted to think on it before making a purchase. Taya advised getting a coffee a the Beach Stop down the way, thinking about it, and coming back if Marieka still really wanted it/felt connected to it and what it represented (a calm presence; a being who helps spirits pass to the next world).

Capuccino was bought and drunk by Marieka, who chatted with the lady at the Beach Stop. Then, it was on to Taaw Hill. The road narrowed and, in placed, trees grew right at the edge (or even in from the edge), so I drove these sections with caution.

Arriving at Taaw Hill, I read the graphic legend while Marieka used the outhouse. First we followed the wheelchair-accessible trail to the blowhole (not blowing, as the tide was not high enough) and wandered the volcanic rocks while looking up at Taaw Hill, and down at the sea life in the tidal pools in the rocks.

Taaw Hill sign with graphic legend

Marieka on the volcanic rocks by the blowhole

Taaw Hill in the background

Tidal pool

I was taken by this window in the rock

Then we followed the connector trail up to the lookout from the top of Taaw Hill, eating lunch up there and feeling lucky to see a whale travelling East in the waters just North of the Island, also looking further North to see the mountains of Alaska and container ships in the sea between.

View of North Beach from mid-way up Taaw Hill

Agate Beach from the lookout

Minke whale in the water

Walking back down from the viewing platform, I asked Marieka if she considered the whale sighting a coincidence or a sign. She noted it was a lucky occurrence that could be seen as a sign. We talked a bit about the bracelet and how the characteristics of Frog - of listening deeply to and then sharing on stories - was a good fit for her and others in Anthropology.

We walked across the bridge, past the Hiellen Pole, before walking onto North Beach where Marieka went for a swim (crazy lady) while I waded a bit in the cold water and watching the people netting crab.

Hiellen Village Pole

Does that look like fun?

Much warmer out of the water

After this, it was off to Agate Beach, where we walked the length of the beach then back through the campground, trying to figure out which tent platform I'd camped on last time, and noting the good design of the platforms with windbreaks.

Agate Beach and Taaw Hill

On our way back to Masset we stopped off at the Chown Gallery, where, after it being polished, Marieka did buy the killer whale bracelet.

After a dinner at the 626 (Ceviche and a halibut burger with fries for me; Ceviche and 2 pieces of fried halibut for Marieka) I loaded the trailer and bikes into the Expedition, we both stretched, packed & bathed, and got ready for bed.

Tomorrow will be a big travel day, as our next stay is 83km away. The plan is to leave around 10am after picking up a couple of things at the Co-op (peanut butter, mostly), making a couple of others stops on the way, and getting to the next stay for 12pm to check in, drop Marieka & gear, then I'll drive back to Masset to begin the ride back down.

Wednesday, July 12th - around Masset and Hokulea Tour

This morning, we went for a walk around the Delkatla Wildlife/Wetland preserve, learning about the changes caused by the causeway, the project to re-open the causeway, and the process of returning this area to a salt marsh.

We saw 2 pairs of sandhill cranes and another flying overhead. We also saw a kingfisher catching a fish and learned that ther viewing platforms, in the middle of the day, generally didn't help us to see anything we couldn't already see.

Old barrack foundations on the way to the wetland

Wetland and sandhill cranes

Wetland and sandhill cranes

This was a longer walk than planned, and Marieka's legs were letting her know this gently. We got some tacos and torpedo prawns at Charter's Food Truck on the way back downdown, then went to the "open ship" for the Hokulea.

The Hokulea "open ship"

It was amazing to see this boat, double-masted with beautiful wood, held together with lashings, and meet the crew, who were all proud Hawaiians and amazing human beings. We heard pride of learning traditional ship-building, tales of repairs, of how traditional Polynesian ocean navigation was re-learned, of restoration of language (from being banned from being taught in schools, to being a second primary language in schools). Marieka and I even got cajolled into trying at hand at the giant paddle/rudder.

Looking up the foremast

Chris at the rudder

After this we finally got some of the ceviche from the 626 fish truck, which was really good.

For dinner we passed up on the feast for the Hawaiians in Old Masset (the walk probably would have pushed Marieka's back over the edge) and had a salad with the last of our lettuce and a couple of hard boiled eggs.

Tuesday, July 11th - Old Masset & The Arrival of the Hawaiians/Hokulea

Marieka needed to sleep in this morning, so it was pretty late that we got packed up and began the walk to Old Masset.

It was a bit challenging, as there were many dips in the sidewalks and trail that could catch her off-guard an potentially re-injure or exacerbate her back.

Arriving in Old Masset, we spied an Open sign outside April White's studio, but, despite following the instructions to ring the bell (and hearing the dog inside barking away), there was no sign we would be able to enter, so we continued on, visiting the next studio on Raven, being struck by the story of the print inspired by a young girl at the All Nations Basketball Tournament, but ultimately not seeing any pieces that grabbed us.

Continuing on, we passed the carving shed/longhouse and eventually came to a memorial pole. Checking the Visitor Guide, it was identified as one not to be sought out, so I noted this to Marieka and we enjoyed with our eyes, out of respect.

We eventually decided to eat our first lunch at the edge of the beach with a view of the launch of the Haida Canoe, carrying its delegation to meet the Hawaiians, in a clearing beside cutouts of Sasquatch and a bear.

The Carving Shed/Longhouse

Sasquatch leading a bear

The Haida Canoe heading out

 Eating our sandwiches, a man walked up and asked if we enjoyed his cutouts and chatting with us about the coming welcoming, his grandfather, Chief Wiah, who had the "Monster House" in the 1800s - a giant house with 3 levels/floors going into the earth in the area where his current house stands.

After finishing our lunch, we watched the Haida Canoe launch with 2 low kayaks accompanying it, snet off with song. It sped through the waters and I noted how it was a long perfected technology, as they were heading into a headwind with the flag of the Council of the Haida Nation flying straight back behind them.

Chief Wiah's grandson returned and informed us that the canoe was off tot he old village site on the far side of the inlet, and would greet the Hawaiian boat.

We decided to wander up to Sarah's Haida Arts, where we saw more beautiful prints (Marieka was really taken with April White's "Salmon Dances" with a detailed green background, and another artist's "Frog Prints"), silver work, argilite carvings (including one piece, absolutely gorgeous and huge, valued at $120,000) and many other carvings!

All of the paddles I saw had me reflecting on how taken I was with a smaller Hummingbird paddle I had seen at the Crow's Nest, and trying to figure out how to purchase it and safely get it back home.

I wound up buying 2 books only: Flight of the Hummingbird (again), and sharing with Marieka how I had also bought it last time I was here for Morgan, my girlfriend at the time, and "Out of the Shadows: Female Supernatural Beings of Haida Gwaii."

We walked down to the beach where there was a large crowd gathering. Raven was also cordoned off. There was a palpable buzz to the air as people gathered to welcome the Hawaiians. We saw many people in regalia, from cedar hats to button blankets and vests, to ermine skin crowns and capes. The power boat that had accompanied the Haida Canoe landed and a lady in blue regalia got onto the shore carrying a bentwood box.

As happened during my previous trip, we saw familiar faces: the chief from Old Masset we had met on the ferry; Christine, a bike-riding teacher we had first met with he family in Tlell, then saw again in Port Clements, who talked about how good it was to see young people wearing their cultural gifts.

Then, around a corner appeared 2 masts and the Hawaiian double canoe came into view flying 2 flags: The Hawaiian flag and the flag of the Council of the Haida Nation.

The gathering crowd

The Hawaiian canoe

The Haida Canoe with delegation

The Haida Canoe returning with Hawaiians

There were a number of songs of welcome played, then the Haida Canoe returned, landed, had a small delegation paddle out to the Hawaiian canoe, board, and return to shore with a delegation of Hawaiians.

At this point, Marieka and I agreed to return to Masset to get dinner. It was a good, but long walk to get salad dinners before going to bed.

Ready for salad!

Monday, July 10th - Port Clements to Masset

We got up, did some stretched (you may notice a theme), at breakfast and got all our stuff ready to go. I got our bags to the driveway along with Marieka's bike, and began to prepare for my ride. I had decided to pull my trailer, with my shoes and a few other lighter things in it.

We were all ready to go for 10am and talked with Dawn while we waited.

Elsie arrived around 10:15am and, after some learning around how to fold flat the rear seats, we got Marieka loaded up and on the road.

I was off shortly after. Taking a wrong turn, I started heading South, but quickly realized this when I got to the main highway turnoff to town. Heading the right way again, I kept at my usual pace, aiming to get to Masset in under 2 hours. There were a number of hills to climb, but also a number of hills down which to fly, so I kept a good speed, although I was definitely feeling that this was the most intense ride I had done in a long time.

I saw some new sights - a big sign for the future site of a tidal generation demonstration project being the main on I can recall.

As the ride went on, I felt sore in my butt from the time in the saddle and remembered to stand a bit more, and wondered if part of this was being sore from pedalling at a faster, more intense pace, but kept going.

I pulled into Masset in a little under 2 hours, and got to Marieka at the 626 Fish & Chips at a bit more than 2 hours on the road, taking advantage of the location to get some lunch.

Conveniently, this was next door to the Gwaii Naay House, so we were able to lock up the bikes and get ready for a walkabout.

Walking through the centre of Masset I saw a weight lifted: Last time I was here, the old barracks, boarded up, were an emotional weight and really sunk my spirit. This time, all that was left was foundations and grass, with children playing in the field and positive, life-affirming graffitti covering the foundations.

Roller Skates and Foundation

We walked across the causeway to the highway and Visitor Info Centre, took a photo at the Mile 0 sign, then walked back past the Copper Beech House, along Waterfront streets and over to the Maritime Museum before we got back to Gwaii Naay House and tried to figure out dinner.

Mural on the Gwaii Trust Society building

 

With most places closed on a Monday, our only option was the "Pub Faves" menu of Daddy Cool's - all deep friend and carby. It took me a long time to figure on something marginally healthy-ish (yam fries). Thankfully, we'd had a big lunch, so weren't really in need of a real meal.

Before dinner, we had done a grocery run and seen a poster about a Hawaiian Canoe journey that would be landing in Old Masset tomorrow, so we began to plan around this, so we could be there for this and the welcoming ceremony.

 

I also gave a call to Masset Car & Truck rental and was able to make arrangements to rent a car Thursday and Friday to get Marieka, her bike and bags, and my trailer and bags down to our next stop in Lawn Hill (~90km away) on Friday. Plan C is coming together.

Sunday, July 9th - last day in Port Clements

I let Marieka know my thoughts - we'd find a way to get her, her bike, and most of our gear to Masset and I would follow by bike, then we would work on next steps.

With her agreement, I put this into action, reaching out to Elsie at the Gwaii Naay House in Masset where we would stay there, asking if she had any ideas. Elsie responded to my e-mail immediately, that she would look into it.

We also spoke with Dawn, our host in Port Clements, who agreed to post on the Port Clements facebook page for us (as we didn't have internet access for my laptop, and couldn't access facebook with our phones). On our way back from a walk to the bird observation tower at the community campground, Elsie called: The Masset taxi service had a car, but no driver, so that wouldn't work, but she could pick up Marieka and bring her back, working around the arrival of another guest - a border agent who was flying in. We agreed on a price for Elsie's time and gas, and arranged that she would pick Marieka up at 10am.

A flotilla of trees where the Yakoun River flows into the bay

 

With relief, we went to the Axe & Anchor for brunch and then updated Dawn, who also offered to help Marieka by giving her some topical oils that could help her back.

Afterwards, we walked to the museum, marvelling at some big old hardwoods in town (we later learned these were "Heritage Trees", planted 100 years ago) - a copper beech and an old oak growing side-by-side. Marieka was getting sore, but we went to see the golden spruce seedling by the church. It was still behind a giant chainlink fence. It had grown a lot in the last 15 years, but had spread outwards, instead of growing up, being still only a foot and a half tall, but 6-8 feet wide.

Dinner that night finished off our kimchi (a kimchi rolled omelet), after which we did some stretching and got our bags ready for tomorrow.

Saturday, July 8th - Tlell to Port Clements

We left the Rose Cottage after breakfast for the short (21ish km) ride to Port Clements, taking it slow. I was in the lead and kept Marieka in sight in my mirrors, but was finding it harder to go the same speed as Marieka could go. By our midway stop at Mayer Lake, it had been almost an hour on the road. Marieka talked about being tired, but couldn't really explain it so that I could understand. We walked a bit, she took a nap ont he shore and then, it being at 12pm, we had our first lunch of salmon sandwiches before getting back on our bikes.

Mayer Lake

Water flowers

Nap on the banks of Mayer Lake

 

The ride into Port Clements was uneventful, but slow, with a moderate hill a bit before the turnoff for Port Clements. In town, we did a supply run at the local grocery store, dropped out bags at our airbnb (more about this later) and rested up a bit before heading to the Golden Spruce Trail, so that Marieka could have a full day break from biking tomorrow.

The first 3km  of ride on paved road went quickly and were fun, but as soon as we hit the logging road things slowed down immensely. I figured the rougher road was a bit more challenging to find a confident line, and a bit more jarring. By the time we made the trailhead (3km later) it was feeling to me like this had been a bad idea. Marieka's back was sore, she was walking slowly, and worried about the ride out.

The walk had new, Haida-written signage centring Haida ways of being in this world, connecting with the wonder around us. At the end of the trail was the tale of the Golden Sprice, with a brief note that it had been cut down, but that its teachings live on. Returning to our bikes was a final teaching, to not look back, but to be and coexist in the now and future (my reading of it), which really helped to move from the discussions we'd been having about the cutting of the tree and the book "The Golden Spruce".

Big tree

Giant tree with a cave in it

Resting on a fascinating log

 

The return to pavement took less time than we had feared, but damage had already been done. We had dinner that night at the Axe & Anchor Pub, with Marieka wearing a healing plaster on her back again, worrying that disc may be bulging, and that she would not be able to bike to Masset.

That night, once Marieka fell asleep, I decided on some steps to take.