Tuesday, July 11, 2023

Tuesday, July 11th - Old Masset & The Arrival of the Hawaiians/Hokulea

Marieka needed to sleep in this morning, so it was pretty late that we got packed up and began the walk to Old Masset.

It was a bit challenging, as there were many dips in the sidewalks and trail that could catch her off-guard an potentially re-injure or exacerbate her back.

Arriving in Old Masset, we spied an Open sign outside April White's studio, but, despite following the instructions to ring the bell (and hearing the dog inside barking away), there was no sign we would be able to enter, so we continued on, visiting the next studio on Raven, being struck by the story of the print inspired by a young girl at the All Nations Basketball Tournament, but ultimately not seeing any pieces that grabbed us.

Continuing on, we passed the carving shed/longhouse and eventually came to a memorial pole. Checking the Visitor Guide, it was identified as one not to be sought out, so I noted this to Marieka and we enjoyed with our eyes, out of respect.

We eventually decided to eat our first lunch at the edge of the beach with a view of the launch of the Haida Canoe, carrying its delegation to meet the Hawaiians, in a clearing beside cutouts of Sasquatch and a bear.

The Carving Shed/Longhouse

Sasquatch leading a bear

The Haida Canoe heading out

 Eating our sandwiches, a man walked up and asked if we enjoyed his cutouts and chatting with us about the coming welcoming, his grandfather, Chief Wiah, who had the "Monster House" in the 1800s - a giant house with 3 levels/floors going into the earth in the area where his current house stands.

After finishing our lunch, we watched the Haida Canoe launch with 2 low kayaks accompanying it, snet off with song. It sped through the waters and I noted how it was a long perfected technology, as they were heading into a headwind with the flag of the Council of the Haida Nation flying straight back behind them.

Chief Wiah's grandson returned and informed us that the canoe was off tot he old village site on the far side of the inlet, and would greet the Hawaiian boat.

We decided to wander up to Sarah's Haida Arts, where we saw more beautiful prints (Marieka was really taken with April White's "Salmon Dances" with a detailed green background, and another artist's "Frog Prints"), silver work, argilite carvings (including one piece, absolutely gorgeous and huge, valued at $120,000) and many other carvings!

All of the paddles I saw had me reflecting on how taken I was with a smaller Hummingbird paddle I had seen at the Crow's Nest, and trying to figure out how to purchase it and safely get it back home.

I wound up buying 2 books only: Flight of the Hummingbird (again), and sharing with Marieka how I had also bought it last time I was here for Morgan, my girlfriend at the time, and "Out of the Shadows: Female Supernatural Beings of Haida Gwaii."

We walked down to the beach where there was a large crowd gathering. Raven was also cordoned off. There was a palpable buzz to the air as people gathered to welcome the Hawaiians. We saw many people in regalia, from cedar hats to button blankets and vests, to ermine skin crowns and capes. The power boat that had accompanied the Haida Canoe landed and a lady in blue regalia got onto the shore carrying a bentwood box.

As happened during my previous trip, we saw familiar faces: the chief from Old Masset we had met on the ferry; Christine, a bike-riding teacher we had first met with he family in Tlell, then saw again in Port Clements, who talked about how good it was to see young people wearing their cultural gifts.

Then, around a corner appeared 2 masts and the Hawaiian double canoe came into view flying 2 flags: The Hawaiian flag and the flag of the Council of the Haida Nation.

The gathering crowd

The Hawaiian canoe




The Haida Canoe with delegation

The Haida Canoe returning with Hawaiians

There were a number of songs of welcome played, then the Haida Canoe returned, landed, had a small delegation paddle out to the Hawaiian canoe, board, and return to shore with a delegation of Hawaiians.



At this point, Marieka and I agreed to return to Masset to get dinner. It was a good, but long walk to get salad dinners before going to bed.

Ready for salad!


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