January 5th, 2010 - Big day

Today, we bid Tammera farewell for the final time.

I had initially planned on climbing today, but Anton had pulled his shoulder a bit yesterday. We'd been planning on doing some relatively easy leads to end things off on a really positive climbing note for both of us, until the climbing in Chiang Mai, but, with the pulled shoulder, that plan was off, so my climbing gear was packed away in the bottom of my big pack. My plan then became to hike around a bit and watch others climbing.

I stuck close to Top, Jay, Joni, and Sophia while they climbed. First, we went to Taiwand Wall - Joni had unfinished business there, but it was, predictably, super busy, and it started raining on us, so, we went off to Wee's Present Wall, which has some very overhung routes, which are nice and sheltered from the rain. Jason led a couple of routes, while I chatted with a couple of people from Copenhagen who were on a lead climbing course, then, the others split off and Jason, Top, and I headed down to Phra Nam Beach so Jason could do a massively overhanging 6c route we had seen an Asian couple working on the other day. Jay led 3 bolts up, to just before the move from under the overhang and over the ledge, but didn't feel confident to do the move over the overhang to get the next bolt, which was above the ledge. He tried it a couple of times, retreating from it in defeat.

Top was called on to finish the crux move, being a very skilled climber. Top easily got to the crux move and fell the first time. He tried it again, this time using a heel hook and working his hands along the ledge. Then, his hands gave out, but the heel hook lasted a second too long. His upper body dropped, inverting him, and his swing began. With the placement of the last bolt, his swing took him into the face of the wall, head-first. He hit with a disturbing smack, immediately covered his head and asked to be lowered.

As soon as he was down and seated, a couple of beach vendors came over to give assistance, as blood began covering the back of his (thankfully already shaven) head. I ran for a first aider or doctor, heading for the resort nearby at the direction of the beach vendors. The first security guard directed me to go further, so I continued running, as did the second. Finally, I spoke with someone who marginally spoke English, and he told me we would have to go around to Railay East, a 10-minute walk away.

I ran back with the news, but Top was feeling a little better, so, with the help of a beach vendor, we got antiseptic poured in the cut, put a band aid from my pack over it (believe me, this felt wholly inadequate, but was all we had), and then walked over to the first aid/pharmacy on East Railay, where the pharmacist put on a real bandage. The cut was only about an inch long, but the goose-egging of the flesh really didn't help. He didn't seem to have any broken bones, but we're all of the opinion that he should see a doctor and at least get it x-rayed, although he's of the opinion that he doesn't need it... at least not until he gets back to the US.

The irony of the situation was that Jason had his climbing helmet with him, having brought it along because they were supposed to do a multipitch route that morning, and he never does anything multipitch without a helmet. None of us had thought about using it, despite the bad bolt placement on this route. Thankfully, this has been a lesson learned at little price - Top has a scar and a story, and the rest of us have re-learned the importance of helmets, even with what should be straightforward climbing. This was easily one of the scarier things I've seen climbing, and a good reminder about safety.