Today is the last day of our trek. We'll be doing some more walking and end with some rafting on rubber and bamboo rafts. But, right now, I'm sitting in the village hug, listening to the sounds of this already very awake and alive village.
The roosters started about 4am in surround sound. A couple of hours later, when it became light, the village itself began to come alive, with people moving about and beginning their day.
It actually got kind of cold last night, and I had to pull on both of the blankets we had each been provided with our simple mattress and pillow.
We're in a village of Lahu people, originally from Burma. they grow soya beans, tamarind, jackfruit, and mango. We've seen people wandering around, working and playing in a mix of traditional and modern garb. They used to grow opium, but have moved away from this with government support.
The children start school at the village school. As they get older, they go to a school in a large village, with residence fully funded for them by the government - yet another way that the government attempts to improve their quality of living.
At breakfast, they brought out out their local crafts; souvenirs for us to purchase so they can send money to school with their children for things like candy. All of the crafts were beautiful and made in the village.
I feel good about buying these crafts and supporting this village that has welcomed us. It is a funny thing about human nature, that we support those we most feel a connection to. These are the small changes that this kind of tourism produces in us - these small, human connections, even though mediated by currency, if you are open to them, they cannot help but change the way you see the people and world around you.
I came to Thailand somewhat guarded, expecting scams and people trying to take advantage of tourists, to get what they could out of the tourist trade that so often primarily supports those who are already well off. However, since arriving we've been treated fairly and well, with honesty and open arms. This morning is really bringing home how we've been welcomed. I'm feeling a mix of emotions at this realisatino, and am very glad for this trek for aiding me in this learning.
Everywhere I've gone, I've found myself smiling, and something amazing happens when the smile is returned - on some level, a connection is formed with that other human being.
I now wear a small Buddha bead bracelet to remind me of these connections.
Anton wondered at one point about the love and commitment the Thai people have for their king, and I think I now understand part of it. I've seen the improvements brought to help people in these communities I've been through, working with them instead of just punishing them to get them to leave the drug trade, providing them with viable options. The king, as head of the government that runs these initiatives, is then looked on with fond regard. Imagine if politics and systems in North America were truly designed to help the people, instead of so that the politicians can advance their own careers, although I'm sure the latter happens in Thailand as well.
I see gratitude for what people have in these villages as well, instead of a sense of entitlement, which is so often the curse of priviledge.
This country is not perfect, but it has helped me catch a glimpse of something more.
We hiked down to the rafting spot and had a lot of fun doing the rafting, joking around with each other, splashing, racing the rafts and tipping out of the rafts. After the rubber rafts, we got onto the bamboo rafts, and it was decided by our bamboo raft guide that I was to be the captain/poleman of our raft. I made a few mistakes understanding the instructions ("to the left" means push the pole to the left side of the raft, not move the raft left) and got use hung up on a rock/gravel bar once, but got the hang of it. I thought we would each get a chance to do this and tried to pass it on a couple of times, but our journey downriver ended soon and this never happened.
With a speedy truck ride back to Chiang Mai, after lunch below a tamarind tree, sampling its fresh fruit and being stunned by its flowers, we began to go our separate ways.
We each pitched in a bit to give Kay, our guide who shared of himself and his knowledge of the peoples of the area, a tip. It was out of gratitude that we did this, and also to help him replace his sandals, which had disappeared in the night.
It was with a sincere heart that I said "Korp kun mahk mahk" to Kay as we parted ways. I wish him a bright future, and good health to his family.
I will also miss my trekking companions, wishing them well on the rest of their journeys and hoping that they stay in touch.
I now feel somewhat helpless; the lady who normally runs our guesthouse was not here when I got back so I've been unable to get my main bag, with my passport, remaining US cash and travellers cheques in it, and I have only 50 baht on me. Luckily, the ladies at the front desk let me take the key to my room, and I'm thankful for this, but I feel trapped without enough money to eat more than a snack.
I rambled a bit further towards the centre of Chiang Mai before 6pm, when I was told to check back at the front desk. I checked out a couple of wats, including the massive Wat Chedi Luang, where there appeared to have been a celebration of some kind. An elderly monk sat, covered in flowers and perfectly still. Seeing him, I got a sneaking suspicion that it was his funeral I had found myself at the end of.
returning to the guest house, I was still unable to get my bags, so I gathered my last baht and, seeing "Spicy Mushroom Salad" on the menu across the street, decided what I would spend my remaining baht on. Tammera had raved about this dish, so I had to try it. It was good and spicy, with cut up straw mushrooms, and I definitely enjoyed it.
While I was eating this, the lady came back to the guest house and, after paying for my meal, I was able to finally retrieve my bag and run to the currency exchange so, at the least, I could pay for my room and key deposit. Unfortunately, when I got there, I found out that the computer system for travellers cheques was down, so I wasn't able to exchange them like I'd planned, and had to run back to my room and frantically search for my emergency US cash, which I was able to change over just before the exchange place closed for the night.
After that, I went up to the square to meet up with Anton and Vanessa, who were just finishing up at the coffee shop and then heading out to watch Muay Thai. After they headed out, I ran into Elodie and Dorothee and we went for drinks at the Riverside Bar, to meet up with the guys from the trek.
Tomorrow is mostly unplanned, aside from probably going to a motorcycle touring presentation at the Chiang Mai Saloon, and booking our trip back to Bangkok.
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