7am came way too early. Anton had asked last night, just before we entered the Saturday Market "So, you'll swing by my place tomorrow morning?" and I'd said "No"; Not because, as he said to everyone, I "like to be on (my) own", but because I don't want to be put in a position of being responsible for his time management. I also figured that we would meet up for breakfast, this being a much more convenient mutual location. Besides, after seeing their room on Monday when we got into Chiang Mai, I can't remember which one it is and don't want to be knocking on random doors in the early morning. Plus, he got a new watch with an alarm function, and I've still just got my camera to tell time with.
Anton showed up out front on time and we headed off to find breakfast en route before boarding the red truck to climbing. The restaurant for our place was not open yet, so we had to go elsewhere. We stopped by another guesthouse restaurant on the way and ordered some omelets, with me ordering one on a bagette, so that I could simply pack it and go if time required. They mixed up our orders, giving Anton the omelet I'd ordered on the bagette, and me his Spanish Farmer's omelet, bringing the latter only after he'd finished his, so we didn't realise the mistake until it was too late. Thankfully, it worked out alright, as the one he'd ordered had only potatoes and onions in it, which I've never had before. Thus, it was a minor food adventure, although I don't think I'll order that omelet a lot, but I'll add it to my food repertoire.
Well, we made it on time and hopped on the red truck to climbing and began to chat with our fellow climbers. The story that had most of us paying attention was from a young man from Argentina. He had slept at the climbing area two nights ago and had most of his money out of his bag while he slept. Apparently, theft is common at the area, and there are many signs warning climbers of this, and advising them of a nearby homestay, which is a much safer option.
We made sure to keep our bags close and in sight while climbing.
On this first trip we stuck to the main area, the Crazy Horse face. We jumped onto the 6's there, with all 3 of us doing them pretty much on sight for as far as we could before lunch.
I led a 6a and 6a+ with only one fall and one rest respectively, then went for my most ambitious lead yet - a 6b on sight. I rested a bunch of times, hanging on the rope as I moved up bolt to bolt, move to move. I wasn't especially fond of the climb, but it was all there. By the end, I got frustrated and angry at it, and bailed off it after the sixth bolt. I could see the moves I needed to do to finish the climb, but I had to force myself for each move, and this was wearing on me.
So, I came down and did it clean on top rope after Kevin set it up. Without the extra psychological factor, it was actually a pretty nice climb.
After lunch we went for another area, hitting the Evening Terraces area. I took a shot at leading a 6a+ called Margeritaville, and flew up the first section, until it started getting harder, when the mind games began taking over and I started struggling, missing hold and doing moves more awkwardly than I should have.
I managed to reach and clip the 6th bolt on this one, but my head and arms just weren't in it any more, so Kevin was called on again to finish and clean it. I wanted nothing more to do with that climb.
Our day over, it was homeward bound, for showers and the Sunday Market. Although I didn't need to buy anything else, this was a great place to get dinner, eating a lot of interesting and tasty food for under 100 baht. I had spring rolls, sticky rice in toasted patty form, sticky rice in a bamboo shoot, and so much more.
Afetr, I ducked out of the market to the square and chatted with new people until almost midnight, by which time the market was beginning to pack up. It reminded me of craft show endings from when I was a kid, with people still wandering around as stalls were being stripped down to their frames, tables taken down, and goods being packed into plastic tubs; except that here, there were also cars beginning to drive on the street again.
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