I took my time getting started in the morning, having breakfast and laying things out to dry before packing the bike back up and heading into Fort Liard to check out the Visitor Info Centre and artisan shop. I was struck by the beauty of the porcupine quill art work on the birch bark items, and the high quality of all of the pieces, walking away with a few small items, including the cured pelt from a beaver's face: at only $1, I couldn't pass it up! I also chatted with the girl working there, finding out a bit more about the community through the eyes of its teenagers, along with some of her goals and dreams.
Having passed noon, it was definitely time that I needed to take off, having about 300km's of likely rough riding to get to Fort Simpson. After yesterday's experience of about 50km's of gravel, I knew my average speed would be well below the posted limit of 80km/h.
This turned out to be pretty accurate, as it was around 7pm that I finally pulled into Fort Simpson.
The riding started out rough, with relatively fresh gravel that I tried pushing 70km/h in. Mostly, this worked out alright, but a couple of high speed wobbles that put my heart in my mouth (even though I controlled and rode them out) convinced me that 60km/h was a better pace to find the less loose lines at.
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| The Liard Trail, with the mountains of Nahanni in the distance |
This was taxing mentally, so I took every chance I could tyo take a break, checking out some viewpoints and playing a bit at the turnoff to the winter road to Nahanni Butte.
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| The closed winter road to Nahanni Butte |
I took a quick break at the Blackstone River, and a longer one at Blackstone Park. The latter, located where the Blackstone flows into the Liard River had some stunning views of the mountains, as well as a visitor centre that was well worth the stop on its own, detailing a lot of information on the progression of regional native arts, as well as the skill involved in them.
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| The Blackstone River |
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| The Liard River with the mountains of Nahanni in the background |
Shortly before Blackstone, I had passed a grader working, and the road began to get more worn, with distinct clear patches and lines of minimal gravel. I loved it, but had to keep reminding myself that there was no need to speed, as my speed would creep up to 90 km/h on this great (for me) road condition.
Taking a break at a pullout, I met a couple from Port Frnaks, ON, who had limped into that pullout the previous day in their RV. They had pulled into Fort Liard yesterday, found much of it closed, and decided to push through to Fort Simpson instead. RV's don't like the same conditions as bikes to, and they got a rock in their radiator, causing a leak. When I came across them, they had almost finished putting everything back together, nearly a full day of doing repairs later. They were going to stay another night and continue on tomorrow.
I rode on, at one point finding my true nemesis - a steel deck bridge - but it was just oen panel of grating long, so I was able to ride it out easily (although, I did slow down a lot). Finally, though, I reached the enf of the road - I had ridden the entire stretch of NWT Hwy #7 - The Liard Trail.
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| At the end of the Liard Trail |
The highway up to Fort Simpson is mostly paved, with streches and breaks of gravel, so my speed went up, as did the limit.
Getting to the Liard River, I saw the ferry on the other side and decided to watch it and take some pictures. It left the other side and I watched it swing into the river and turn into a ferry angle I knew from paddling, to have the current push it across the river. Boarding the ferry was easy and we were quickly across and I was onto the final stretch to Fort Simpson. Riding in, I saw a distinct cell tower, finding when I checked in camp that I do indeed have cell reception in town. Apparently newer phones don't, but I, with my pre-3G flip phone, have great service.I set up camp and noticed far fewer bugs, and absolutely no "no-see-ums", which had tormented my so in Fort Liard.
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| On the ferry over the Liard River |
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| My campsite in Fort Simpson |
Walking into town, I quickly found an open restaurant, a place called the "Sub Artic Restaurant", in an older brown building. Expecting a sub shop, or pub fare, I opened the door and was greeted by that staple of Western Canada - the Western-Chinese restaurant, complete with lucky money, red signs with gold characters, a lucky cat, a poster with the Jade Emperor, tinsel, and Christmas decorations, run by a Chinese family. The walls were lined with rough hewn boards, so it was all a bit to take in all at once. However, the food was fresh, hot, and plentiful, and good quality, so I enjoyed.
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| The Sub Arctic Restaurant in Fort Simpson |
After dinner, I did a bit of walkabout and debated going to Wrigley the following day, or just touring this town, and I went to bed, at a likely temperature of 29 degrees celsius outside, with that unanswered, but leaning towards "yes".
In the middle of the night, I came aware of a flash of light and some voices. One of the other campers had seen a black bear, and wanted to make me aware of it.
Out went my earplugs, and my can of bear spray, ready in case I needed it. Needless to say, it was a while before I got back to sleep.
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